How To Open A Cuisinart Single Cup For Repair
You've come up to the right place for your Cuisinart h2o leak repair–Follow along to replace the cracked water hoses. The internal hoses connecting the heating element to the h2o tank get brittle and cleft over time. When the coffee maker attempts to pump the water, it leaks out the crack. I have figured out how to get past the safety torx screws and replace these cracked hoses and then you tin breathe new life into your otherwise skillful Cuisinart Coffee Maker. Originally I had a hard fourth dimension finding replacement hoses. I wrote an commodity on how to re-use the shorter hose. I would recommend replacing the hoses simply y'all tin read the commodity where I re-apply the shorter hose: Repair a Leaking Cuisinart Coffee Maker.
Cuisinart H2o Leak Repair – Replace Cracked Cuisinart H2o Hoses
Equipment:
- Cuisinart DCC-2600 Brew Key 14-Cup Programmable Coffeemaker with Drinking glass Carafe (now replaced by the DCC-2650 model)
Tools Needed:
- Needle nose pliers (for removing the hose clamp)
- CR-VT10 Security Torx Driver (become it as a set or individual tool) (must have a thin shaft to fit down into the recessed pigsty)
- Size 3 flat precision screwdriver (this can be used to remove the security torx screws)
Repair Parts:
- High temperature silicone tubing .312 ID X .472
Optional Cuisinart DCC-2600 Supplies:
- Charcoal Water Filters for Cuisinart Coffee Makers
- Cuisinart GTF Gilded Tone Filter
- Cone Coffee Filters
Repair Instructions:
Step 1: Unplug the coffee maker.
We are going to open information technology up so you definitely practise not desire information technology plugged in as y'all could be shocked.
Stride 2: Empty any water out of the tank.
BTW: y'all should remove the carafe and ready it aside starting time. To empty the water from the tank I just turned mine upside down over the sink.
Stride 3: Lay the coffee maker on its back and then you lot tin can access the screws on the bottom.
We want to remove the bottom plate. The screws are in recessed holes located equally indicated below. You practise not demand to remove any of the rubber feet to admission the screws, btw.
Footstep 4: Remove the four bottom screws.
These screws are security Torx-ten headed screws. This means they are Torx-10 with an additional pin that sticks upwards in the middle of the screw head. Here you lot can see a close-up of the screw head:
The flake tip for these screws looks like this, a torx with a pigsty in the heart:
Unfortunately, the hole in the case is too modest to use a flake tip like the ane pictured above, as it won't fit deep enough into the narrow-diameter hole. Lucky for us, yous can use a 3mm precision flat-tip screwdriver scrap instead, which barely fits down into the corners of the star shape:
I also discovered that you tin can alternatively use a smaller flat-tip screwdriver bit, which will skid by the security postal service and sink down into the head. One time yous remove the four screws, you may need to slip a apartment-head screwdriver up into the seam to get the bottom out. Here the lower comprehend has been removed:
Below is what it looks like inside. These coffee makers are a keen written report in lean engineering. There is just one heating element for both the water going into the grounds and for the carafe, and the pump is nothing but essentially a ball check valve:
Below is a great video that explains how these java makers work. If you don't already know, it volition be helpful for knowing how to reassemble it:
Footstep v: Find the coffee maker leak location.
This isn't required, but I always want to know that I've figured out the root cause of the problem so I know I'thou really fixing the problem. Once you have the bottom cover off you can search for the leak. I've heard of people discovering a leak in the aluminum heating element as well as the rubber tubing. Quickly I was able to see a light-colored line on the acme side of one of the hoses, simply to a higher place where it connects to the heating element:
With a little pressure on the hose you can definitely see that information technology is cracked all the way through–definitely the root cause of this leaking Cuisinart coffee maker:
Stride vi: Remove the wire hose clamps.
Clasp the hose clamps and push them back on the heating elements, as seen below. Echo this for both hoses–you should supersede both hoses while you are at it because the non-leaking hose is destined to take the same problem and if you are going to go to all the work to replace one, it's non much more piece of work to replace the other.
Footstep 7: Remove the hoses from the heating elements.
If yours cracked merely at the end of the heating element connection you can likely just bend the hose and information technology will break off. Alternatively yous could cut it off with a box cutter. Regardless, we need to get these old hoses off the heating element pipes:
I measured the heating element pipe at 0.447, which would be the stretched inner diameter of the rubber hose:
I estimate that the replacement hose should accept an ID of approximately vii/16″ = 0.4375 or eleven mm. I found that the hoses I have listed above in the parts section, at 8mm inner diameter, work fine.
Step viii: Remove the Lower (Inner) Instance Screws
In order to remove the other stop of the hoses (and reinstall the new ones), on the bottom end of the tank, you need to disassemble the coffee maker. Remove the five Phillips-head screws in the post-obit locations. The film below is actually from when I had (temporarily) repaired the hoses, which I wrote nearly in this commodity: Repair a Leaking Cuisinart Coffee Maker
Step 9: Disconnect the ends of the stainless steel bands.
Removing the screws in the previous step volition not let y'all to disassemble the java maker equally it is also held together past the two narrow stainless steel bands running forth the outer edge of the coffee maker:
The metal strips that run along the front of the coffee maker are actually more just for looks–they hold the coffee maker together. They wrapped around the coffee maker and a spring holds them tight. I guess the temperature changes in the coffee maker posed a challenge to using adhesives to agree the stainless steel trim so they had to use springs to continue them tight. There are two metal clips that hold the bands tight. They are diagrammed below:
To disconnect the bound clips, press in the "spring stop" (I just made up the names for the parts, btw) and so unhook the clips from the sides of the spring stop to release the leap.
Keep track of the parts:
Pace x: Pull out the stainless steel strips.
Once you disconnect the leap clips y'all can pull the stainless steel bands up and out of the base of operations of the coffee maker. Here's what you'll accept when y'all pull them out:
Step 11: Carve up the top from the base of operations.
Circumspection: there is a wiring harness that must exist released before you can completely separate the peak of the coffee maker from the base, so exist careful not to force it.
Pull the base of operations away from the top of the coffee maker, looking for the wiring that connects the 2:
Pull the electrical connector out of its socket on the circuit board. There are "catches" on each side of the connector y'all can place a modest apartment screw driver into to pry information technology out:
Later you disconnect the electrical connector you will exist able to remove the summit:
Note that in the image to a higher place you tin come across the modification I fabricated in trimming the base so I could reconnect the shortened hose from before I received the replacement hoses and had only reconnected the erstwhile hose the first fourth dimension I repaired this coffee maker.
Step 12: Accept note of the bank check valve location.
As described in the video link I embedded before, this coffee maker'south "pump" is just a bank check valve. That check valve is in-line within one of the hoses that we are going to be replacing then nosotros need to take note of its orientation, which hose it is located on, and the location of the valve, and then we can reinstall it in the new hose. Y'all can locate the bank check valve by looking for the "bulge" in the hose, where the burl will be solid because of the check valve inside. I marked it with a Sharpie marker:
If you lot look into the ends of the hoses y'all volition exist able to meet the check valve:
Pace thirteen: Disconnect the hoses from the tank.
Locate the hoses sticking downward and out of the top portion of the top of the coffee maker:
Utilise a needle-nose pliers to remove the hose clamps and remove the hoses:
Pull the hoses off, if y'all can, or you may need to cut them off. I was able to get them off:
Step fourteen: Remove the Check Valve
Perform this step carefully every bit yous do not want to lose the check valve brawl as it is needed for assembly. Carefully slit the hose in the area where the bank check valve is located, taking not of the valve's orientation and the brawl, which volition become loose when y'all open it up:
Hither is the cheque valve removed:
Step 15: Cut your new hoses to length.
If you ordered the hoses I link to at the acme of this article, you tin become both hoses out of the one. Cutting both hoses 6 one/2 inches long:
Stride 16: Install the check valve into i of the hoses.
I used some water to lubricate the check valve before starting to insert it. Partially insert information technology and and so identify the ball inside and and then push button the valve in the remainder of the manner:
I don't think the verbal placement is critical–I inserted the valve about a half-inch into the hose. Hither the valve is fully inserted:
Stride 17: Install the hoses on the water tank.
Slip the bound clamps on the 2 hoses so install them on the water tank. For the check-valve hose, connect the opposite end to the water tank equally the check valve should be at the bottom virtually the heating chemical element:
Slide the bound clamps into place, half way betwixt the end of the tank connection and the bottom of the tank:
Pace 18: Reassemble the top of the coffee maker on the base of operations.
Reunite the electrical connector with the excursion board sticking up from the base and reconnect the connector. The connector will simply fit together in the correct orientation:
Once you have the connector reinstalled, you can put the two halves fully together. Make certain the power cord comes out the notch in the dorsum:
Stride 19: Re-Thread the Stainless Steel Strips Through the Base
Insert the stainless steel strips into their slots in the base of operations:
Yous should then accept this:
Step 20: Reinstall the Springs and Clips
At present that the stainless steel strips are reinserted into the base we can reinstall the spring clips that concur them together. Install them in the post-obit order:
Step 20a: Insert the L-Bracket:
Insert the L-bracket with the round pigsty end going into the slot:
Here the 50-bracket is reinstalled:
Stride 20b: Insert the spring.
Insert the spring betwixt the L-subclass and the end of the stainless steel strip as seen beneath:
Step 20c: Reinstall the spring stop.
This was a tricky part of this associates. Hopefully the lessons I learned volition assistance you lot. To reinstall the spring finish: hook the spring stop on the L-bracket, have up all the slack in the stainless steel strip so that all of it sticks out the bottom, press downwards on the spring stop every bit seen below, and place the end of the stainless steel strip over the hook on the bound finish:
Then claw the stainless steel strip on the bound stop:
Repeat this process for the other side.
Footstep 21: Reinstall the hoses on the heating element.
Insert the jump clamps on the new hoses as seen below:
Moisture the connections to aid in the hose installation. I think I probably put some of my own spit on it to exist honest, since information technology's my own coffee maker 😉 I pushed the hoses on almost a half-inch. Then install the bound clamps half way between the end of the heater element and the hose finish:
I really plant one of the two hoses to exist merely slightly too long then I asunder information technology, trimmed it, and and then reconnected it. Nigh of all you want to make certain they are not kinked or too long. This was the ane I trimmed and how much I trimmed off of it:
Check Valve Location Double-Checking:
Just to verify, your check valve should exist in the general vicinity every bit seen beneath on this top hose:
Step 22: Reinstall the lower (inner) base of operations screws.
They are located equally indicated below:
Stride 23: Reinstall the lesser cover and outer base screws.
Hither's where the screws get:
A fob to reinstalling them is to insert your precision screwdriver into the head first and then guide it into the pigsty and tighten:
Now yous're done. You've breathed years of additional life into your java maker for around five bucks!!
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How To Open A Cuisinart Single Cup For Repair,
Source: http://www.shareyourrepair.com/2017/12/replace-cracked-cuisinart-water-hoses.html
Posted by: millermazed1951.blogspot.com

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